On Tuesday 23rd July 2024 Janette and I visited (for the first time) the small island of Rathlin, just off the north coast of County Antrim. Rathlin is the only inhabited island on the coast of Northern Ireland, with a population of around 150, although it is reported that the population is steadily growing. I can understand why. We were quite taken with its tranquility, and its peacefulness. The island is very community focused, and a graphic near the Co-op lists the values that mark the community, – seeking to make Rathlin a welcoming place for everyone. 

The island is L-shaped, and about 4 miles long, by 2.5 miles wide. Its main form of commerce these days seems to be tourism, and it boasts a small hotel, bar, a Co-op shop, and a couple of gift shops. The RSPB have a bird sanctuary and breeding programme on the island, and tours to see the puffins are a popular attraction.

Access to the island is by the regular ferry services, operated by https://rathlin-ferry.com, who have an efficient and fast service from Ballycastle, using a catamaran, (Kintra II) which takes about 30 minutes to make the journey, and a larger vessel, (Pride of Rathlin), which takes about 40 minutes. Visitors cannot bring cars to the island, and on Kintra II only one small item of hand luggage is permitted. Because of this I took just one camera, the Fujifilm X-T5, with two standard zoom lenses, giving me a range of 18mm to 300mm, and I kept the camera set to record on Acros Film Simulation and RAW, simultaneously.  Although, I ended up with simple monochrome images.

I’m not fit enough to walk down the cliff steps to view the puffins, so we confined our exploration of Rathlin to the village itself, and to the one main road that runs across the island. (Bicycles are available for hire, but we stayed on foot). There are two churches, Roman Catholic and Anglican (Church of Ireland) and these were both open for visitors and photographs. Getting to the RC Church was a bit of a climb, for the road on Rathlin rises quite steeply from the village, but it really is worth the effort, for the views across Church Bay are stunning.

St Thomas’s Church, Rathlin Island

RC Church of the Immaculate Conception

The Manor House https://www.manorhouserathlin.com is the small hotel, a welcoming establishment with a restaurant and bar, and after our picnic lunch near the Church of Ireland building, we enjoyed tea on the lawn outside in the sunshine, and then later, we visited again, after our walk, to take tea and soft drinks in their quiet lounge, and to my surprise, they even had a gluten-free traybake option! – And really friendly and helpful staff. (They have dog-friendly rooms too).

Being on Rathlin evoked schoolday memories from long ago; learning the legend of Robert the Bruce, one-time king of Scotland, who had taken refuge in a cave (Bruce’s Cave) on Rathlin, sited just under the east lighthouse (Rathlin has three lighthouses!). Legend has it, that in 1306 Bruce had travelled the 15 miles from the Mull of Kintyre  to Rathlin to regain his strength, and was alone and dispirited in the cave, when he saw a spider. As we recall the tale, he watched the spider climb up a narrow thread, and repeatedly falling, but getting up again – and inspired by the spider’s persistence he resolve to go back to the battle, fighting against the English at Bannockburn. It’s only a myth, probably the work of Sir Walter Scott, but there is good historical evidence that Robert Bruce was on Rathlin, with around 300 men. Read more about Bruce and Rathlin here: https://discoverulsterscots.com/history-culture/robert-bruce-700/was-it-really-rathlin

Anyway, our day on Rathlin came to an end with the 6pm ferry back to Ballycastle, but the day was not over. Before the journey back to Portrush, we enjoyed an amazing fish supper in Morton’s Fish and Chip Shop (https://www.facebook.com/mortonsfishandchips/) at Ballycastle harbour, a culinary delight indeed, and we were surprised to be joined in their separate eating area (across the path from the shop itself) by a bride and groom, newly wed, with a dozen or so guests, all sitting down to a wedding breakfast of fish and chips. Now, that’s my idea of an ideal wedding day!

Visit Rathlin Island. Maybe just once, and enjoy it.